This is an emblematic mountain worldwide and it is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.
The first time someone reached the summit was in 1865. It was done by group of seven mountaineers, four of which passed away when descending. It represents, still nowadays, one of the biggest tragedies of the alpinism in Europe.
We are facing a technical mountain, where even its normal route is a complex challenge to accomplish.
There is a continuous need of movements and scrambling, and that to be added to a long ascension and descension… It is an activity that requires good technic as well as great fitness, both going to the summit and back.
The Hörnli Ridge, with a great alpine atmosphere, consists of a laborious mixed terrain which obligates the climber to have a good practice on the use of crampons.
Previous climbing experience as well as a good fitness are unquestionable requirements to do this activity.
The acclimation phase can be carried on in the massif of Mont Blanc or, depending on the conditions and meteorology, directly in Zermatt.
Details of the program follow:
Day 1: Meet in Chamonix
Day 2: Trip to Zermatt and approximation to the Rothorn Hut (3.198 m)
Day 3: Rothorn Hut – Ascend to Zinalrothorn (2.221 m) using the Southeast ridge (D, IV, 370 m)
Day 4: Hotel du Trift – Zmutt – Hörnli Hut (3.260 m)
Day 5: Hörnli Hut – Ascend to Matterhorn using the Northeast Ridge or Hörnli Ridge (AD inf, III, 1200 meters elevation gain). 10-12 hours ascend and descend – Hörnli Hut
Day 6: Hörnli Hut – Zermatt – Tasch – go back to Chamonix
Day 7: We have non-programmed day to be able to choose the summit day in order to climb on the best conditions.